E. Europe's Heat Wave: Russians Wear Shorts!

I consider myself fortunate to be staying in Moscow while it is enjoying its record-setting high temperatures :) It is the worst the region has experienced since Nixon Visited China, making the Soviet Union hot under the collar. It has certainly tested my limits as to what I can endure. It wouldn't be bad if my room and the classrooms were well ventilated. The picture to the right is looking toward downtown Moscow Friday morning around 9 a.m. The haze is caused by burning peat bogs outside of the city.

I'll quote from today's Moscow Times: "A heat wave in the western part of Russia, the worst since 1972, will last another 10 days, the country’s chief forecaster said July 20. Temperatures have broken July records in dozens of cities in the region, including Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod and Samara, while Moscow may break its all-time record of 36.8 (almost 100 F) degrees Celsius this weekend."


Just how hot is it? It is so hot, a colleague who lives in Miami is uncomfortable. Seriously. 


The reason why the temperatures are unbearable is because Moscow doesn't have high enough temperatures long enough normally to build buildings more efficiently for air flow or install air conditioners. Most buildings have very poor cross-draft capabilities. Some buildings are "air-conditioned," but when you step in side, it isn't the Western version of A/C. It feels stale and flat because it is kept very low.


A cultural note: European men do not wear short pants. That is what I was told and that is what I witnessed upon my arrival in June. However, the heat has caused European men to don shorts and flip flops. It was interesting to watch the transformation as the temperatures soared beginning early last week. Perhaps a new trend will take hold and the men will no longer be so stoic. The women escape the heat by avoiding hose and wearing sun dresses. (Fortunately for me I didn't listen to the advice and brought two pair of shorts. I haven't worn long pants now for about two weeks.)


Sadly the heat has caused over 150 people to swim in water seeking relief and then drown. Most have drowned because they were drunk and overly heated. Last week two small children drowned in a city fountain. 


The heat is also causing numerous fires. This one occurred about 1/2 mile from outside of my apartment. 

There is nothing better than waking up on a weekday morning to the smell of burning towers. It inspired me as I sweltered in my apartment finishing up a research paper on Stalin's use of propaganda in Moscow's Metro system.


I'm traveling to St. Petersburg today. It is expected to be about 15 degrees cooler because of its location on the Baltic Sea. Yeah!

Bigger is not Always Better

Friday is my last language class. I have written three papers, and completed three lecture courses. I have lived in Moscow now for just over four weeks. On Friday night I take the train with my group to St. Petersburg. We will stay and visit for the weekend and return on the night train Sunday night. There are then two more days of packing in Moscow before flying out next Wednesday. I am looking forward to returning home.

Today I visited some excellent Soviet-era moments to the greatness of Communism.

I was amazed at the Space Obelisk, which is over 350 feet high. Officially known as the Monument to "The Conquerers of Space." It represents a rocket heading toward the heavens. It is a beautiful example of Soviet public art and propaganda. At the base of the status is an awesome Bas-relief of Soviet Realist art, depicting the Soviet people under a confident Lenin pointing the way to space and the future. The grand opening of the monument took place on October 4, 1964, on the day of the 7th anniversary of the Sputnik 1 launch.





Even more impressive is the spectacular site of the former Exhibition of Economic Achievements of the U.S.S.R. It is still intact but is now known as the All-Russian Exhibition Centre. It was built in 1939 and designed to impress. It did.

Conceived as a cross between World Fair and Theme Park, with monuments to Soviet science, fountains, amusement-park rides and national pavilions for all the republics of the USSR. There are 82 pavilions spread over 578 acres. It was over 90 degrees so I didn't visit them all :)


The main entrance is a triumphal archway surmounted by towering statues of a tractor driver and a farm girl brandishing sheaves of wheat, which sets the scale for the avenue of fountains that leads to a Lenin statue and the Central Pavilion.


Between 1948 and 1989 pavillions continued to be added until it reached its peak of 82. There were pavillions for industries or fields such as Engineering, Space, Atomic Energy, People's Eduction, Radioelectronics, and Soviet Culture. There were also pavillion dedicated to regions or towns within the Soviet Union. The exhibition was held annually and attracted scientist and industry professionals from across the Soviet Union and the world. It was used to showcase what the Soviet Union claimed to be progress in all fields. 


In 1992 Russia opened it up to private enterprise. Now it is a bizarre juxtaposition: part agricultural fair, part trade expo, part shopping centre and part street market, with amusements as diverse as paint-balling and camel rides - as well as the ubiquitous slot-machine arcades - on offer in various parts of the grounds. This isn't what Stalin had it mind.  


As I was standing in the middle of the park with the massive pavilions surrounding me it dawned on me that this is why I wanted to come to Russia. I am able to place myself within an existing Soviet monument. Seeing all the elaborate pavilions, immensity of their scale, expensive landscaping, and self-adulation of progress and innovation, it became clear to me that the prestige expressed by the Soviets at this exhibition center was all smoke and mirrors. They had their own people fooled and many world leaders. Bigger is not always better.

Corruption and other Crimes

The biggest obstacle for political change in Russia is corruption at all levels of government. Taking bribes and skimming the cream off the budget are the norms, not the exceptions. Government corruption has its roots in the Soviet Union beginning in the 1970s as the wheels began coming off. Soviet elites wanted to improve their situation as consumer goods became more scarce. Until corruption is reigned in, democratic  progress for the lower and emerging middle class is not going to happen.

Here are three stories in the July 20 edition of the Moscow Times. These are all published the SAME day.

Police-initiated Crime

Police resist change despite growing public distrust: A state-run polling agency conducted a poll with Russians. 82% believe that police officers are ready to break the law. That's one point higher than last year.

32% believe they commit crimes on a regular basis.

Some towns have to use police to police the police.

By the way, it is against the law to "insult" a public official, including police officers. A fine of $1000 or several months of forced labor.

Today's Learning Objective: Demonstrate creativity in making money.
Moscow's Education Department spent 9.35 million rubles ($306K) to lease 7 cars for 12 months. It could have purchased them outright for 8.75 rubles ($287K). An obvious case of fraudlent activity, which runs rampent in government.

Guys: It is always great to give gifts to your wife, unless it's against the public interest.
Moscow's head of the department of bridge and road construction is being investigated for giving 48 different contracts to companies headed by his wife or where she has financial interest.
When questioned about her ownership, he didn't deny it.

Random Thoughts

As of today, I have completed three weeks of my adventure. I'll be departing for Cape Cod in two weeks. While I've enjoyed my time in the city and seeing the sights, I cannot wait to get home. Last Sunday I ceased being a tourist at the State Historical Museum on Red Square. There is only so much one can see or do before hitting sensory overload. Everything began to blur together and I was becoming frustrated so I went back to my apartment to relax and be by myself for the remainder of the day. It worked. I have been fine sense and am planning to do and see more sights later this week.

Here is a collection of random thoughts from this week:

Language Problem: After completing my second week of Russian language course, I find myself beginning to struggle. One problem is that the professor was under the impression that the students had a basic knowledge of the language. We didn't. And, therefore is moving at lightening speed. Secondly, Russian pedagogy relies on rote memorization as the foundation for teaching. I am a visual learner so it is difficult for me to process the language by only hearing it or repeating it. However, what I am picking up is being able to read the words, which was my goal prior to beginning the program. I wanted to be able to translate Russian posters from the 20th century. I am able to repeat simple phrases, such as "My name is Jeff" or "Where is the toilet, please?" Just don't ask me to translate, "Again, please, do I cut the red or the green wire first to defuse the bomb."


Drinking Problem: Russia has one of the highest rates of alcoholism in the world. After living here for three weeks I can see why this is a problem. A common 1/2 liter of beer costs 30 rubles ($1) if obtained on draft. Water or fruit-based drinks cost 40 rubles. Coke or Pepsi? 70 rubles. All of these beverages can be purchased just about anywhere from street vendors. Most restaurants sell beer and hard liquors. Even most mall food-court restaurants sell beer. In most grocery stores a 1/2 liter of common vodka can be purchased for less than 100 rubles, or about $3.25. In Moscow it is against the law to drink in public, yet everyday I pass a large number of people (mostly men) consuming a bottle or can of beer. I even seen several men openly drink beer on the Metro. Perhaps I'm being unfair to judge because I'm not suggesting that America has no problem with alcohol, because it does. American society tends to hide the problem and pretend that young people don't drink or that adults consume too much. There is a dichotomy between the societies where one hides it problem and the other is seen warts and all. 

Hot! Hot! Hot!: Moscow is currently experience an unusually hot summer, the hottest in recent memory. For the past 6 days it has reached above 90 degrees. The next five days are fore-casted to be above 95. Saturday will be 100 degrees. With a short summer season, very few buildings have air conditioning (or good ventilation) so it can become quite uncomfortable. Muscovites have a high tolerance for the warmth. In the school classrooms they are often closing windows, not opening them.  Europeans don't wear short pants and very few men above 30 wear T-shirts. Up to now I've played the role of a good traveler and have attempted to blend in with my surroundings. However, I may play the role of a typical American tourist and wear shorts for the next few days. I am too used to the cooler confines of Cape Cod and air conditioning, so it isn't easy to walk for 30 minutes on city streets to get to classes and then sit in a very warm and stuffy classroom for 4 hours of lectures. Then, I get to travel back to my warm and stuffy apartment for the evening. Ugh! As my resident director has stated often: "Russia isn't for sissies." I agree.

Mall Rat: On Tuesday following classes a colleague and myself spent over three hours in the very large European mall next to the Moscow River. While we looked around at all of the Western-based stores, the reason wasn't to shop. We were there for two things: Air Conditioning and Coca-Colas' with ice. (See above). In Russia as in Europe, ice is a rare find. Burger King sold it.

Cuban Cigar Crisis: Since there is no embargo on Cuban-made goods here in Russia I decided to purchase an H. Upmann cigar made in Havana, Cuba on Tuesday. However, as I've long suspected and have read critiques about them, the Cuban-made cigar cannot live up to its hype. Its mystique for Americans is its unavailability in the states. I usually smoke cigars made in the Dominican Republic, which smoke and taste the same but for a quarter of the price. But, a nice advantage about smoking cigars in Moscow is that you don't getting dirty looks from others, usually because they are busy smoking cigarettes. Many restaurants sell cigarettes and cigars from their food menus. The other day I sat in a the "no smoking" section of a popular restaurant. The only thing not smoking was the sign. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!

Wrestling Stalin

I had a great time tonight visiting the graveyard of fallen Soviet Memorial at the Central House of Artist, also known as the Fallen Monuments Park. It is across the wide street from Gorky Park. I was able to flip Stalin the bird and put him in a headlock, plus see the remnants of hundreds of former statues, artwork and busts that occupied the Soviet Union. They have been assembled here in this park because there was no other place to put them. 

It is quite bizarre touring this park. A large statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky, who was the founder and initial leader of the Checka, Lenin's secret police and heavy during the Red Terror, stood front and center. The statue once stood at Lubyanka Square, near the KGB Headquarters before it was pulled down in 1991 by cheering crowds with the collapse of communism. It now resides peacefully in this park. Nearby a construction company is putting the finishing touches on a large apartment building designed with a neo-Stalinist architecture. It is hideous and revolting. It has the similar wedding-cake appearance of Stalin's Seven Sisters. Put in juxtaposition with Dzerzhinsky's towering figure, it is further proof that the Russian people aren't quite sure they are ready to leave their past behind them.

But, as stated earlier, I put Stalin in a headlock and flipped him the bird. This was the highlight of my Tuesday evening. There is minor damage done to the larger statue from previous vandalism, but I cannot believe the statue is upright, and the bust isn't at the bottom of the Moscow River. I certainly will put my photo with Stalin to good use as a profile picture.


The picture below is myself in front a large Soviet emblem and a sign that, roughly translated, states the USSR is the center of the world. Yeah, that is so 1950s. Today, the sign is rusting and falling apart in a park mostly visited by tourists and young Russian couples who want to make out on the numerous park benches. 

Escaping the Past

During my first Russian politics class today the professor, who is Russian, and grew up under the Soviet regime and lived through the transitive turmoil of the early 90s, mentioned how the Russian people are unique in the world while adjusting to their political reality. Despite voting in democratic elections, the people still feel alienated from the state. Once leaders are put into power, they no longer represent the voters, but the state - just like in the Soviet days or Tsarist Russia. While this is sometimes a perception and not always reality, it makes it difficult for the Russian people (or the government) to know where they are currently or where they want to head as a political and social society.

After Germany and Japan were defeated in World War II, both societies were physically wiped clean of all traces of the regimes that had lead them into their disastrous wars. There are no monuments to Hitler or Tojo. While the Soviet Union no longer exists as a state power, symbols of it exists all over Moscow and I'm sure the country. In my previous posts, I've mentioned several old Soviet symbols still present in the Metro and on the buildings about town. While the Russian people may not acknowledge these symbols on a day to day basis they are there to remind them of a failed state. How can a country move forward if it still hangs on to its past?

Along this theme, today I noticed three physical traces of the Soviet state that still exist in Moscow.

• Walking through a major hub station of the Metro today I passed a large, bold mosaic on the station wall of Vladimir Lenin. (Not exactly a role models for the kids.)
• In the school of higher education, which I've previously mentioned was a elite school to train communist party leaders, there are six very large marble "plaques" on the walls of the main entrance to the school. (3 on either side.) They appear to have been scrubbed clean some time ago. I suspect they had communist slogans and/or portraits of Soviet leaders on them to inspire the students. For the current Russian youth attending the school, they can read a lot into this vast emptiness. Perhaps a metaphor for the country's uncertain future, as my professor suggested. (See picture below)
• Lastly, Khrushchev's skyscrapers. The story is that when Khrushchev visited the U.S. in 1958 with Eisenhower and Nixon in the White House, he visited New York and other parts of the country, was famously denied entrance to Disney Land, and he hobnobbed with Hollywood royalty. When he returned to Moscow he demanded that Moscow have skyscrapers just like New York, only bigger. What he got were five tall basic buildings of poured cement. Russian engineers could not build higher or use better building materials. Not exactly up to New York standards. These building today line a street that is bustling with high-end capitalism. The contrast is incredible. (See picture below)

Lastly, I started formally learning Russian today. Wow. It is difficult, but I think after a few days I will begin to get the hang of it. After staying in Moscow for four days I am already starting to pick up phrases and place names during conversation. More to report on the language learning later. 

Weekend's Over - Work Begins

I have had a great Saturday and Sunday exploring Moscow. Obviously there is too much to see and do in a weekend, but that is the great part about being here for another month, is that I will have time to go back and explore what interests me in more detail.

I have become obsessed with the city's Metro system. It is an awesomely designed system that moves about 7 million people daily. I am focusing my attention in the coming weeks to several of the stations that were built during Stalin's regime. These stations are full of Soviet realist artwork, slogans, and architecture that will help me teach one aspect of Stalin's propaganda. I have already started building a website and in the coming weeks will begin adding notes and photographs of what I find at each of the stations. Prior to, during and following WWII, the stations were built deep underground (one is almost 200ft.) to also serve as a bomb shelter. The depth is emphasized as one rides the escalators up or down onto the platforms.

Moscow is 8 hours ahead of Cape Cod. Plus, the sun doesn't set here until 10:19 p.m. It begins getting light again around 3:30 a.m.  It is making it difficult for me to go to sleep. As I write this, it is 10:02 p.m. I am normally asleep by 9 p.m. I'll be up until midnight. Here is a picture of last night's solar menace.

Walking throughout Moscow the past two days I've noted that it is beautiful in parts, and gaudy in others. The city puts a high value upon parks, monuments, flowers, and trees where the ancient city walls once stood on a ring road in the central part of the city. Other parts of the city are a mixture of ultra-modern, 20th century and ancient. Advertisements, wires, and whatever are placed everywhere in spots. (See pictures below.) More on the details of the city in the coming weeks.

The Work Begins: Tomorrow I begin classes and they cannot come sooner. These are the major reasons why I signed up for this program. I have been getting anxious to begin because it has been almost a week since I began the journey from Providence. Tomorrow is my first Russian language course and contemporary Russian political policy course. I hope they are everything I expect.

Red Square is Awesome! So is warm Tomato Juice

Today our group took Russian-language-placement exams and a a fast-paced walking tour of downtown Moscow. Over the coming weeks there will be more in-depth visits for further study. These are my thoughts on today: 


"Пролетарии всех стран, соединяйтесь!" (Proleterians of all countries unite!) Nice idea on as written on this stone. (Me, on the right) Probably the only time I'll allow myself or my thinking on the same plane as Karl Marx. This is one of the few monuments left to Marx today. It is situated very near Red Square and is directly across from the Bolshoy Theater.

One of my top ten places to see in the world is Red Square. Today I experienced it. I stood in its center and imagined the propaganda power of a military parade. St. Basil's Cathedral in front of me, and the Kremlin walls to the right. Awesome! However, before this, as I am walking through the gates I spot Lenin and Stalin - in person, sitting and chatting together. Obviously not the real deal but it was two actors who looked eerily similar to the pair. Stalin in a white coat and smoking a pipe, Lenin, somewhat relaxed, as if "really" listening to Stalin. It was a moment too fleeting for a camera, but the pair appeared to be taking a break while sitting on folding chairs. The scene was reminiscent of the actual time the two of them were seen together.

Unfortunately, the grandeur of Red Square is cheapened by the marketing allowed to make it a tourist attraction on the level of Rock City or Disney World. Vlad and Joe are proof enough. There are cheesy T-shirts, military caps, and other "Soviet" trinkets that glorify what the Communist accomplished. Having actors portray brutal dictators for "admiring" tourists seemed a bit much for me. On Thursday, a group of people tore down one of the last remaining statues of Stalin - in his hometown in Georgia. (This seems proof enough of what a lot of people think.) Stalin is a man responsible for 30 million deaths in the political purges and show trials of the 1930s, forced labor camps and the botched agricultural collectivization schemes. However, others stills view him as a hero for saving the Soviets from Nazi Germany and modernizing Russia.

I also saw where the building where the Politburo met, the former KGB headquarters, the Duma building, the Bolstoy theater, and old, old Moscow that hadn't been destroyed by Stalin.

Side Notes:

• The building where I'm taking my classes used to educate people how to be excellent communist bureaucrats for the Soviet Union. It was an elite academy known as the higher party school. I want to find out more about its history.

• I experienced the Moscow Metro for the first time. The car I rode it must have been built in the 50s but the experience was only sweeter because of it. Yes, for the record, Muscovites invade one's personal space, but that only heightens the experience. I'm glad I put on deodorant today, however, I wish others had the same consideration.

• I took my entrance exam for the Russian language today. I finished quickly. The only question I could answer was the spot to write my name (in English). I think I will be placed in the beginners class (and not for good reason.)

• At the university's cafeteria I took a chance and ordered a fish soup. However, it was more like a fish chowder and it was the best I had ever eaten. It had more than enough fish in it and the flavors in the broth and other ingredients were awesome. It cost 40 rubles, which is about $1.33.

• I have discovered that Russians have an affinity for tomato juice, and, like any connoisseur, they prefer it without ice. I purchased two liters of it today to enjoy later at room temperature.

D.C. to Moscow

  I began Wednesday morning by watching the sun rise over the Lincoln and Washington Memorials in Washington, D.C. around 5:30 a.m. EST. The sun stayed with me through about 11:30 p.m. (The second photo was taken at 10:45 p.m. outside of my dorm room) Thursday in Moscow, where the city is 8 hours ahead of the East Coast. The uneventful flight took 10 hours to get to Moscow. Upon arrival at Domodedovo airport there were no issues with papers or customs, so myself and the entire group sailed through the process. The other international airport in Moscow is Sheremetevo 2, which is located to the north of the city, but it has become run down in recent years and many airlines have switched to Domodedovo.

Staff members from Moscow State University picked us up at the airport, which is south of the city, for the 45-minute journey to the outskirts of the city. Our dormitory building is where the university houses visiting faculty so it is much nicer by Russian standards than student housing.

Upon arrival the first order of business was the assignment of rooms. Mine is on the 13th floor of a 14th floor building. Its size is typical of a single dorm room in the United States. It has a mini-fridge, private bath, , a computer, single-bed, a balcony that overlooks an industrial area / rail yard / busy highway, and an excellent desk for school work.

After settling in the group went out walking to a small shopping area to exchange dollars for rubles, get Metro tickets, and obtain dinner. This was my first exposure to the Russian culture and its people. I would compare the area we are staying to an industrial / blue-collar area of a major city in the United States. The majority of Russians that I saw appeared to be working class. Of course as the days continue my impressions will surely change as I have more to compare them against.

Despite all the warnings against appearing to be Americans it is impossible to shield our group from looking like a group of Americans. I witnessed many stares from young people to older adults. Not being familiar with the culture or language I am always on my guard to avoid being taken advantage of by a con artist, which - unfortunately - is a common occurrence. As mentioned by my resident director, "Always be aware of your surroundings."

I had an excellent - but small - dinner at a hole-in-the-wall type of restaurant. The fare consisted of cold marinated salads of fresh vegetables, and a small patty of seasoned veal meatloaf. I cannot wait for tomorrow and see what is available to eat downtown nearby the university.

Having been up for over 24 hours all of us returned to our dorms to unpack and crash for the night. This was easier said than done because of Moscow's northern position, the sunlight doesn't fully recede until well after 11 p.m. This only further messed with my body's internal clock. However, I did fall asleep after midnight, and as of 5:30 a.m. Friday I feel that I am back on my normal schedule and ready for the day's work.

The sign above us reads: "Higher School of Economics, Professors' Lodging." In Moscow everything is taken seriously so we decided to act serious while waiting for room assignments.