Red Square is Awesome! So is warm Tomato Juice

Today our group took Russian-language-placement exams and a a fast-paced walking tour of downtown Moscow. Over the coming weeks there will be more in-depth visits for further study. These are my thoughts on today: 


"Пролетарии всех стран, соединяйтесь!" (Proleterians of all countries unite!) Nice idea on as written on this stone. (Me, on the right) Probably the only time I'll allow myself or my thinking on the same plane as Karl Marx. This is one of the few monuments left to Marx today. It is situated very near Red Square and is directly across from the Bolshoy Theater.

One of my top ten places to see in the world is Red Square. Today I experienced it. I stood in its center and imagined the propaganda power of a military parade. St. Basil's Cathedral in front of me, and the Kremlin walls to the right. Awesome! However, before this, as I am walking through the gates I spot Lenin and Stalin - in person, sitting and chatting together. Obviously not the real deal but it was two actors who looked eerily similar to the pair. Stalin in a white coat and smoking a pipe, Lenin, somewhat relaxed, as if "really" listening to Stalin. It was a moment too fleeting for a camera, but the pair appeared to be taking a break while sitting on folding chairs. The scene was reminiscent of the actual time the two of them were seen together.

Unfortunately, the grandeur of Red Square is cheapened by the marketing allowed to make it a tourist attraction on the level of Rock City or Disney World. Vlad and Joe are proof enough. There are cheesy T-shirts, military caps, and other "Soviet" trinkets that glorify what the Communist accomplished. Having actors portray brutal dictators for "admiring" tourists seemed a bit much for me. On Thursday, a group of people tore down one of the last remaining statues of Stalin - in his hometown in Georgia. (This seems proof enough of what a lot of people think.) Stalin is a man responsible for 30 million deaths in the political purges and show trials of the 1930s, forced labor camps and the botched agricultural collectivization schemes. However, others stills view him as a hero for saving the Soviets from Nazi Germany and modernizing Russia.

I also saw where the building where the Politburo met, the former KGB headquarters, the Duma building, the Bolstoy theater, and old, old Moscow that hadn't been destroyed by Stalin.

Side Notes:

• The building where I'm taking my classes used to educate people how to be excellent communist bureaucrats for the Soviet Union. It was an elite academy known as the higher party school. I want to find out more about its history.

• I experienced the Moscow Metro for the first time. The car I rode it must have been built in the 50s but the experience was only sweeter because of it. Yes, for the record, Muscovites invade one's personal space, but that only heightens the experience. I'm glad I put on deodorant today, however, I wish others had the same consideration.

• I took my entrance exam for the Russian language today. I finished quickly. The only question I could answer was the spot to write my name (in English). I think I will be placed in the beginners class (and not for good reason.)

• At the university's cafeteria I took a chance and ordered a fish soup. However, it was more like a fish chowder and it was the best I had ever eaten. It had more than enough fish in it and the flavors in the broth and other ingredients were awesome. It cost 40 rubles, which is about $1.33.

• I have discovered that Russians have an affinity for tomato juice, and, like any connoisseur, they prefer it without ice. I purchased two liters of it today to enjoy later at room temperature.

D.C. to Moscow

  I began Wednesday morning by watching the sun rise over the Lincoln and Washington Memorials in Washington, D.C. around 5:30 a.m. EST. The sun stayed with me through about 11:30 p.m. (The second photo was taken at 10:45 p.m. outside of my dorm room) Thursday in Moscow, where the city is 8 hours ahead of the East Coast. The uneventful flight took 10 hours to get to Moscow. Upon arrival at Domodedovo airport there were no issues with papers or customs, so myself and the entire group sailed through the process. The other international airport in Moscow is Sheremetevo 2, which is located to the north of the city, but it has become run down in recent years and many airlines have switched to Domodedovo.

Staff members from Moscow State University picked us up at the airport, which is south of the city, for the 45-minute journey to the outskirts of the city. Our dormitory building is where the university houses visiting faculty so it is much nicer by Russian standards than student housing.

Upon arrival the first order of business was the assignment of rooms. Mine is on the 13th floor of a 14th floor building. Its size is typical of a single dorm room in the United States. It has a mini-fridge, private bath, , a computer, single-bed, a balcony that overlooks an industrial area / rail yard / busy highway, and an excellent desk for school work.

After settling in the group went out walking to a small shopping area to exchange dollars for rubles, get Metro tickets, and obtain dinner. This was my first exposure to the Russian culture and its people. I would compare the area we are staying to an industrial / blue-collar area of a major city in the United States. The majority of Russians that I saw appeared to be working class. Of course as the days continue my impressions will surely change as I have more to compare them against.

Despite all the warnings against appearing to be Americans it is impossible to shield our group from looking like a group of Americans. I witnessed many stares from young people to older adults. Not being familiar with the culture or language I am always on my guard to avoid being taken advantage of by a con artist, which - unfortunately - is a common occurrence. As mentioned by my resident director, "Always be aware of your surroundings."

I had an excellent - but small - dinner at a hole-in-the-wall type of restaurant. The fare consisted of cold marinated salads of fresh vegetables, and a small patty of seasoned veal meatloaf. I cannot wait for tomorrow and see what is available to eat downtown nearby the university.

Having been up for over 24 hours all of us returned to our dorms to unpack and crash for the night. This was easier said than done because of Moscow's northern position, the sunlight doesn't fully recede until well after 11 p.m. This only further messed with my body's internal clock. However, I did fall asleep after midnight, and as of 5:30 a.m. Friday I feel that I am back on my normal schedule and ready for the day's work.

The sign above us reads: "Higher School of Economics, Professors' Lodging." In Moscow everything is taken seriously so we decided to act serious while waiting for room assignments.