Escaping the Past

During my first Russian politics class today the professor, who is Russian, and grew up under the Soviet regime and lived through the transitive turmoil of the early 90s, mentioned how the Russian people are unique in the world while adjusting to their political reality. Despite voting in democratic elections, the people still feel alienated from the state. Once leaders are put into power, they no longer represent the voters, but the state - just like in the Soviet days or Tsarist Russia. While this is sometimes a perception and not always reality, it makes it difficult for the Russian people (or the government) to know where they are currently or where they want to head as a political and social society.

After Germany and Japan were defeated in World War II, both societies were physically wiped clean of all traces of the regimes that had lead them into their disastrous wars. There are no monuments to Hitler or Tojo. While the Soviet Union no longer exists as a state power, symbols of it exists all over Moscow and I'm sure the country. In my previous posts, I've mentioned several old Soviet symbols still present in the Metro and on the buildings about town. While the Russian people may not acknowledge these symbols on a day to day basis they are there to remind them of a failed state. How can a country move forward if it still hangs on to its past?

Along this theme, today I noticed three physical traces of the Soviet state that still exist in Moscow.

• Walking through a major hub station of the Metro today I passed a large, bold mosaic on the station wall of Vladimir Lenin. (Not exactly a role models for the kids.)
• In the school of higher education, which I've previously mentioned was a elite school to train communist party leaders, there are six very large marble "plaques" on the walls of the main entrance to the school. (3 on either side.) They appear to have been scrubbed clean some time ago. I suspect they had communist slogans and/or portraits of Soviet leaders on them to inspire the students. For the current Russian youth attending the school, they can read a lot into this vast emptiness. Perhaps a metaphor for the country's uncertain future, as my professor suggested. (See picture below)
• Lastly, Khrushchev's skyscrapers. The story is that when Khrushchev visited the U.S. in 1958 with Eisenhower and Nixon in the White House, he visited New York and other parts of the country, was famously denied entrance to Disney Land, and he hobnobbed with Hollywood royalty. When he returned to Moscow he demanded that Moscow have skyscrapers just like New York, only bigger. What he got were five tall basic buildings of poured cement. Russian engineers could not build higher or use better building materials. Not exactly up to New York standards. These building today line a street that is bustling with high-end capitalism. The contrast is incredible. (See picture below)

Lastly, I started formally learning Russian today. Wow. It is difficult, but I think after a few days I will begin to get the hang of it. After staying in Moscow for four days I am already starting to pick up phrases and place names during conversation. More to report on the language learning later. 

Weekend's Over - Work Begins

I have had a great Saturday and Sunday exploring Moscow. Obviously there is too much to see and do in a weekend, but that is the great part about being here for another month, is that I will have time to go back and explore what interests me in more detail.

I have become obsessed with the city's Metro system. It is an awesomely designed system that moves about 7 million people daily. I am focusing my attention in the coming weeks to several of the stations that were built during Stalin's regime. These stations are full of Soviet realist artwork, slogans, and architecture that will help me teach one aspect of Stalin's propaganda. I have already started building a website and in the coming weeks will begin adding notes and photographs of what I find at each of the stations. Prior to, during and following WWII, the stations were built deep underground (one is almost 200ft.) to also serve as a bomb shelter. The depth is emphasized as one rides the escalators up or down onto the platforms.

Moscow is 8 hours ahead of Cape Cod. Plus, the sun doesn't set here until 10:19 p.m. It begins getting light again around 3:30 a.m.  It is making it difficult for me to go to sleep. As I write this, it is 10:02 p.m. I am normally asleep by 9 p.m. I'll be up until midnight. Here is a picture of last night's solar menace.

Walking throughout Moscow the past two days I've noted that it is beautiful in parts, and gaudy in others. The city puts a high value upon parks, monuments, flowers, and trees where the ancient city walls once stood on a ring road in the central part of the city. Other parts of the city are a mixture of ultra-modern, 20th century and ancient. Advertisements, wires, and whatever are placed everywhere in spots. (See pictures below.) More on the details of the city in the coming weeks.

The Work Begins: Tomorrow I begin classes and they cannot come sooner. These are the major reasons why I signed up for this program. I have been getting anxious to begin because it has been almost a week since I began the journey from Providence. Tomorrow is my first Russian language course and contemporary Russian political policy course. I hope they are everything I expect.

Red Square is Awesome! So is warm Tomato Juice

Today our group took Russian-language-placement exams and a a fast-paced walking tour of downtown Moscow. Over the coming weeks there will be more in-depth visits for further study. These are my thoughts on today: 


"Пролетарии всех стран, соединяйтесь!" (Proleterians of all countries unite!) Nice idea on as written on this stone. (Me, on the right) Probably the only time I'll allow myself or my thinking on the same plane as Karl Marx. This is one of the few monuments left to Marx today. It is situated very near Red Square and is directly across from the Bolshoy Theater.

One of my top ten places to see in the world is Red Square. Today I experienced it. I stood in its center and imagined the propaganda power of a military parade. St. Basil's Cathedral in front of me, and the Kremlin walls to the right. Awesome! However, before this, as I am walking through the gates I spot Lenin and Stalin - in person, sitting and chatting together. Obviously not the real deal but it was two actors who looked eerily similar to the pair. Stalin in a white coat and smoking a pipe, Lenin, somewhat relaxed, as if "really" listening to Stalin. It was a moment too fleeting for a camera, but the pair appeared to be taking a break while sitting on folding chairs. The scene was reminiscent of the actual time the two of them were seen together.

Unfortunately, the grandeur of Red Square is cheapened by the marketing allowed to make it a tourist attraction on the level of Rock City or Disney World. Vlad and Joe are proof enough. There are cheesy T-shirts, military caps, and other "Soviet" trinkets that glorify what the Communist accomplished. Having actors portray brutal dictators for "admiring" tourists seemed a bit much for me. On Thursday, a group of people tore down one of the last remaining statues of Stalin - in his hometown in Georgia. (This seems proof enough of what a lot of people think.) Stalin is a man responsible for 30 million deaths in the political purges and show trials of the 1930s, forced labor camps and the botched agricultural collectivization schemes. However, others stills view him as a hero for saving the Soviets from Nazi Germany and modernizing Russia.

I also saw where the building where the Politburo met, the former KGB headquarters, the Duma building, the Bolstoy theater, and old, old Moscow that hadn't been destroyed by Stalin.

Side Notes:

• The building where I'm taking my classes used to educate people how to be excellent communist bureaucrats for the Soviet Union. It was an elite academy known as the higher party school. I want to find out more about its history.

• I experienced the Moscow Metro for the first time. The car I rode it must have been built in the 50s but the experience was only sweeter because of it. Yes, for the record, Muscovites invade one's personal space, but that only heightens the experience. I'm glad I put on deodorant today, however, I wish others had the same consideration.

• I took my entrance exam for the Russian language today. I finished quickly. The only question I could answer was the spot to write my name (in English). I think I will be placed in the beginners class (and not for good reason.)

• At the university's cafeteria I took a chance and ordered a fish soup. However, it was more like a fish chowder and it was the best I had ever eaten. It had more than enough fish in it and the flavors in the broth and other ingredients were awesome. It cost 40 rubles, which is about $1.33.

• I have discovered that Russians have an affinity for tomato juice, and, like any connoisseur, they prefer it without ice. I purchased two liters of it today to enjoy later at room temperature.

D.C. to Moscow

  I began Wednesday morning by watching the sun rise over the Lincoln and Washington Memorials in Washington, D.C. around 5:30 a.m. EST. The sun stayed with me through about 11:30 p.m. (The second photo was taken at 10:45 p.m. outside of my dorm room) Thursday in Moscow, where the city is 8 hours ahead of the East Coast. The uneventful flight took 10 hours to get to Moscow. Upon arrival at Domodedovo airport there were no issues with papers or customs, so myself and the entire group sailed through the process. The other international airport in Moscow is Sheremetevo 2, which is located to the north of the city, but it has become run down in recent years and many airlines have switched to Domodedovo.

Staff members from Moscow State University picked us up at the airport, which is south of the city, for the 45-minute journey to the outskirts of the city. Our dormitory building is where the university houses visiting faculty so it is much nicer by Russian standards than student housing.

Upon arrival the first order of business was the assignment of rooms. Mine is on the 13th floor of a 14th floor building. Its size is typical of a single dorm room in the United States. It has a mini-fridge, private bath, , a computer, single-bed, a balcony that overlooks an industrial area / rail yard / busy highway, and an excellent desk for school work.

After settling in the group went out walking to a small shopping area to exchange dollars for rubles, get Metro tickets, and obtain dinner. This was my first exposure to the Russian culture and its people. I would compare the area we are staying to an industrial / blue-collar area of a major city in the United States. The majority of Russians that I saw appeared to be working class. Of course as the days continue my impressions will surely change as I have more to compare them against.

Despite all the warnings against appearing to be Americans it is impossible to shield our group from looking like a group of Americans. I witnessed many stares from young people to older adults. Not being familiar with the culture or language I am always on my guard to avoid being taken advantage of by a con artist, which - unfortunately - is a common occurrence. As mentioned by my resident director, "Always be aware of your surroundings."

I had an excellent - but small - dinner at a hole-in-the-wall type of restaurant. The fare consisted of cold marinated salads of fresh vegetables, and a small patty of seasoned veal meatloaf. I cannot wait for tomorrow and see what is available to eat downtown nearby the university.

Having been up for over 24 hours all of us returned to our dorms to unpack and crash for the night. This was easier said than done because of Moscow's northern position, the sunlight doesn't fully recede until well after 11 p.m. This only further messed with my body's internal clock. However, I did fall asleep after midnight, and as of 5:30 a.m. Friday I feel that I am back on my normal schedule and ready for the day's work.

The sign above us reads: "Higher School of Economics, Professors' Lodging." In Moscow everything is taken seriously so we decided to act serious while waiting for room assignments. 

Orientation Day

My first task today during orientation in Washington, D.C. was to pick out my first name - Jeffrey - in the Cyrillic alphabet. More about the alphabet later when I understand it better. Trust me though, it sounds like Jeffrey, except there is no J or Y.

Orientation went over the basics for saftey in Moscow, more about the dorms I will be staying in, the course schedules, the cultural excursions, my Russian tutor, etc. I will detail these as I encounter each in Moscow.

After a group dinner several of us took a walking tour of downtown D.C., called on the White House, passed the Treasury and enjoyed a quite muggy evening. Below is a great shot of the Washington Monument I took around 8:30 p.m. (The Jefferson Memorial can be seen in the distance.)

The flight for Moscow departs from Dulles Wednesday at 4:50 p.m. EST. I'll arrive in Moscow at 10:55 a.m. Thursday. It is a ten-hour flight. I'll be 8 hours ahead of EST until July 28.

I'll post more from Moscow!

Пока (Bye)

Departure Day!

It is 8:30 p.m. Monday night and I am sitting at the Union Station in Providence waiting for the 10:16 p.m. train to Washington, D.C. Upon my arrival in Washington tomorrow morning I am to meet with my 11 classmates for a two-day orientation meeting prior to departing for Moscow on Wednesday.

While I feel well-prepared for the trip I am not quite sure what to expect the day we arrive in Moscow, which is making me somewhat anxious. (That and not speaking one word of Russian!) Of course I will learn much more about our itinerary in the new two days.

It was a picture-perfect first day of summer on Cape Cod today, which made it very difficult to leave. Denise took me to the train station. It was hard to watch her drive away. I will miss her greatly these next five weeks. (We are going to Maui for two weeks upon my return, so that will serve as therapy.)