St. Petersburg, Russia

St. Petersburg is a much different place than Moscow. This far northern city knows it as well. Upon arriving at the train station early Saturday morning an announcement over loudspeakers greets visitors: "Welcome to St. Petersburg the second, Northern capital of Russia." I don't know if Moscow would agree. However, the city makes a great impression.

Right Image: I almost purchased this car for Denise because I figured I could take it home as a carry on item on the plane. I didn't have enough rubles.

One thing quickly became clear. This city of about 5 million people is much more inviting. And much more relaxed as if it doesn't have anything to prove, unlike Moscow, which seems to thrive upon catching up and/or keeping up with Tokyo, New York City, or London as a major player in the international city scene. There are not as many blaring car horns on the street. People don't drive as fast. There is a slower pace on the sidewalks, subway or restaurants. All over the city there are signs in both Russian and English, which is a rarity in Moscow. Many workers speak some English to help speed up transactions. The reason the city is this way is that St. Petersburg is easily accessible by cruise ships from Finland, which deposits thousands upon thousands of tourists daily during the summer. The city depends upon tourist for its livelihood, versus Moscow.

For my taste however, I prefer Moscow over St. Petersburg. But, it could be my interest in Soviet history, which is much more obtainable in the capital city.

A disclaimer: I am not a fan of the "cottages" of Newport, Rhode Island. Nor am I fan of Monticello or Mount Vernon. This includes the palaces of St. Petersburg. While I appreciate their beauty and architectural wonder, I always consider what it took to build these estates: The labor & slave labor of a working class people whom had no rights bestowed upon them during or after their efforts. Working under brutal conditions, many of these people died creating houses of obscene opulence that served the whims of those that never truly earned their positions. This is appalling evident in the Winter Palace. It rankles me today that Newport, St. Petersburg, et. al. market these structures to attract tourists dollars without rightly and properly putting into context what created these homes.

Image Above: St. Isaac's Cathedral. 

St. Petersburg is a very European city compared with Moscow. Five and six story buildings line the narrow streets. There are very few alleys between the buildings because they are built right next to each other. It is very romantically constructed. There are my 18th- and 19th-century buildings that are built in the neo-classical and Russian Baroque styles. There are several very nice areas to stroll in the evenings, especially along the many parks and canals. However, be prepared to jostle among the numerous tourists if it is the summertime. The Neva River is the main water way that allows the city access to the Baltic Sea. Today it is cluttered with commercial traffic and advertising on its banks that takes away a  lot of its charm and appeal. Of course this is a lot like U.S. waterways.

The Hermitage (The Winter Palace)

Right image: The view from the third floor of the Winter Palace, overlooking the square where three revolutions occurred against Tsar Nicholas II.

This is an top-notch art gallery. To get to the entrance to the palace, one has to cross the square where three revolutions occurred against Tsar Nicholas II early in the 20th century. Bloody Sunday (1905) and the two revolutions of 1917, which were instigated by the Bolsheviks. Standing on the square looking at the Winter Palace and cannot imagine why the people believed their pleas were not being heard :)  It was well worth the hour-long wait to get a ticket to go inside the art gallery, which contains over 800 rooms. I'm not going to spend time rattling off the art contained inside. There are, of course, Picassos', Monets', Van Goghs', Renoirs', etc, but the most amazing part is how close you can get to the paintings or other pieces of art work. There are few barriers. In many cases I could almost put my nose to a Monet as I closely examine his brush strokes. This ability enhances the experience. However, on the other hand, as I wander from room to room I am looking at the ornateness and ostentatiousness of the palace. It is no wonder the Tsars held the peasants in contempt. There is a disconnect between reality and what these royals believed themselves to believe. Of course, Tsar Nicholas II found this out the hard way when he and his family were murdered by the Bolsheviks during the Russian Civil War. 

St. Isaac's Cathedral 

St. Isaac's Cathedral is another symbol of the Soviet peoples' will to resist the Nazi invasion during the Great Patriotic War. During the Siege of Leningrad which lasted almost 900 days from 1941 to 1944, the cathedral survived numerous bombing attempts because of the defensive fortifications erected and the number of anti-aircraft guns surrounding the 19th century church. While many of the palaces outside the defensive perimeter of the city were heavily damaged, including Catherine's Palace and Petrodvorets, this citadel to the city stood its ground. It is a massive structure, and being so central to the city it isn't hard to understand why it was important that it remain standing. The only evidence of damage is on several of the columns which received numerous pockmarks from machine gun fire from Luftwaffe pilots. There is a plaque at the base of one of the damaged columns commemorating those who fought to protect it and those who died during the siege. Like the Gettysburg farm houses who facades show holes where cannon balls and bullets penetrated or damaged, this column reminds its viewers of the brutality of warfare. Today it serves as an appropriate moment to the 1.5 million people that perished during the siege, which is considered to be the most brutal ever in warfare.

Across the street from the Cathedral is the Astoria Hotel. This was Hitler's chosen location to throw a celebration for the smashing of the Soviet Union on New Year's Eve 1941. Needless to say, it was premature on his part. A copy of one of the invitations is on display inside.

Petrodvorets (Peterhof, Peter the Great's Summer Palace)

Russia's Versailles. I've heard this is better than the French Palace at Versailles because of its ready access to the Baltic Sea it has better fountains. If that is the case, I am in no hurry to go to France. We arrived at 10:45 a.m. The crowds, oh, the crowds. Japanese, Dutch, Finnish, Brits, Russian, French, American (Texas), Korean, and Spanish are just a few of the languages I heard just before they bore down upon me pushing their way past to see the next splendor of what Peter the Great had wrought. Each tour group is led by a guide carrying a sign with a unique number of symbol so each group stays together. Everyone is in such as hurry to see the next area they don't even know what they were looking at...

Sorry, I digress. I wasn't impressed with the palace nor the fountains. The gardens were very nice. If you like gardens. I don't like ostentatious displays. See above. Peter the Great was not so great. He had killed about a quarter of his people to consolidate his rule. This is his monument to himself. Actually, now to think about it, the idea of hordes of tourists trampling his grounds is just punishment.

Anyway, the fountains are turned on with great fanfare, complete with music and a drum tapping out anticipation. The crowd goes quiet. Finally, someone turns on the hose. The numerous gilded fountains start spewing water. Wow. The fountains are spewing out water. Somewhere in the distance I hear clapping. It must have been the American tour groups. The event was a huge letdown. A couple of colleagues agreed. I guess in this Moscow heat I get more excited when I turn on my own humble shower. That's a show.

Disappointed and looking for a way to escape the heat, a friend and I walked down to the Bay of Finland's sea edge. It was beautiful. It reminded me of Cape Cod with its breeze, temperature and views. The water lightly lapped against the shoreline. We stayed there for 90 minutes and even skipped the palace tour to stay longer. The professor couldn't believe we would miss such a thing. I don't understand why. After five weeks of sitting in the brutal heat of Moscow, writing several papers, attending hot classrooms, sweating every night while sleeping, a brief escape by the sea's edge rejuvenated my body and soul. Looking across the water became my reality that could not be discovered in a palace of fantasy created by people that were so far disconnected from reality. It was incredible. Here on this large property crawling with thousands of people scurrying about seeing one fountain after the next, or taking photo after photo of gardens, I found peace. It was quiet. Sitting on the large rocks, my friend and I talked about nothing and then everything. I think after five weeks I'm beginning to suffer from sensory overload. I've seen more than I can possibly process in a year. But yesterday I realized again that there is more to life than trying to see everything. It all begins to seem false after awhile. It took the timeless beauty of a natural creation to ease the stress of witnessing so many man-made creations.

I'm sure in the not too distant future I'll look back and realize that I appreciated St. Petersburg more than I appear to here. It is a wonderful place, I just need time to process everything I've seen over these five weeks.

Great Patriotic War Museum

One Word: Impressive


The Soviet Union's / Russia's Use of its Space is quite impressive. From the Kremlin, to its Exhibition Park, to its Great Patriotic War Museum, the designers of the latter were geniuses in using space to evoke emotions.  I remember several years ago visiting the Vietnam War Memorial in Washington, D.C. The use of space in stretching out the 58,000 + names on the black granite was impressive. It certainly evoked a strong emotional reaction to the deaths in that conflict. Yet, the Soviet Union lost 30+ MILLION people in World War II.  The results are horrific. As it prepared to honor the dead on the 50th anniversary of the defeat of Nazi Germany, the Russian government built an impressive memorial that is be hard to top. It is breathtaking.

The designers laid out the park to slowly draw you first toward Victory Monument, a large obelisk commemorating the defeat of Nazi Germany, and then the museum by having you walk a broad parkway only open to pedestrian traffic. Each step evokes a feeling of time and a sense of the commitment necessary to defeat a highly determined enemy. As you get closer to the obelisk, large stone monuments on either side recall victories or defeats against the Germany in chronological order. Upon arriving at the monument I am standing beneath a large bronze equestrian stature of St. George the Victorious piercing a dragon with a spear that stands on the granite platform. St George has killed the dragon (Nazi Germany). St. George slaying the dragon is the symbol of the city of Moscow. My long walk has yielded to the Soviet victory. I can now enter the museum.

In the center of the museum is the Hall of Glory, a white marble room which features the names of over 11,800 of the recipients of the Hero of the Soviet Union distinction, which is its highest military honor. A large bronze sculpture, the "Soldier of Victory," stands in the center of this hall. Below lies the Hall of Remembrance and Sorrow, which honors Soviet people who died in the war. This room is dimly lit. Hanging from the ceiling are 2.6 million bronze pendants with glass beads, which symbolize tears shed for the 30 million dead. At the end of the hall in a large room, a massive, solemn marble statue of Mother Russia cradles her dead son. It is a powerful memorial to war dead. The emotions and feelings of what it is like to be in this area cannot be photographed or described adequately. 



The museum is the best I have ever visited. Every exhibit, every corner, and every richly decorated wall all convey a strong sense of duty to honor the enormous burden shouldered by the Soviet Union during their fight against Nazi Germany. It is impressive. The Russian people have honored their moral responsbility to provide the historical truth of their sacrfices during the conflict. It feels more of a sacred temple to Soviet history than just a museum showing objects and attempting to tell a story. There is a solemnity about it to the point where one whispers and walks slowly and respectfully.


One of the captured Nazi banners that were thrown down in front of Stalin during the victory parade in 1945.

As I considered about the Russian sacrificies during the war, I also remembered Bob Stewart (Dr. Jim Stewart's father, who is a teacher at Sturgis), who had died earlier this month. Bob, was a WWII U.S. B-17 Bomber captain, who began his tour on June 6, 1944. Before I left Cape Cod I visited Bob at the hospital. The last thing he asked of me before I left was to wish his "glorious  allies," the suriving Soviet veterans, all of the best because Bob realized the extent of Soviet sacrificies made against the German Luftwaffe on the Eastern Front. This museum gives testiment to those sacrificies that allowed Americans like Bob to help open up a Western Front invasion in Europe. If not for the Soviets, the U.S. / British losses would have been far greater. Following the war Bob never tarnished the work of the Red Army. (I don't believe the United States as a democratic, capitalistic society, could endure 30 million deaths to defeat an enemy.) While I didn't encounter any veterans to thank on Bob's behalf, who sadly passed away on July 4, I did leave a monetary donation on his behalf. It was the least I could do for him. I believe he would have appreciated the gesture that helps supports this museum. 


The Hall of Glory. Very imposing and a tremendous memorial. You cannot help be silent.

E. Europe's Heat Wave: Russians Wear Shorts!

I consider myself fortunate to be staying in Moscow while it is enjoying its record-setting high temperatures :) It is the worst the region has experienced since Nixon Visited China, making the Soviet Union hot under the collar. It has certainly tested my limits as to what I can endure. It wouldn't be bad if my room and the classrooms were well ventilated. The picture to the right is looking toward downtown Moscow Friday morning around 9 a.m. The haze is caused by burning peat bogs outside of the city.

I'll quote from today's Moscow Times: "A heat wave in the western part of Russia, the worst since 1972, will last another 10 days, the country’s chief forecaster said July 20. Temperatures have broken July records in dozens of cities in the region, including Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod and Samara, while Moscow may break its all-time record of 36.8 (almost 100 F) degrees Celsius this weekend."


Just how hot is it? It is so hot, a colleague who lives in Miami is uncomfortable. Seriously. 


The reason why the temperatures are unbearable is because Moscow doesn't have high enough temperatures long enough normally to build buildings more efficiently for air flow or install air conditioners. Most buildings have very poor cross-draft capabilities. Some buildings are "air-conditioned," but when you step in side, it isn't the Western version of A/C. It feels stale and flat because it is kept very low.


A cultural note: European men do not wear short pants. That is what I was told and that is what I witnessed upon my arrival in June. However, the heat has caused European men to don shorts and flip flops. It was interesting to watch the transformation as the temperatures soared beginning early last week. Perhaps a new trend will take hold and the men will no longer be so stoic. The women escape the heat by avoiding hose and wearing sun dresses. (Fortunately for me I didn't listen to the advice and brought two pair of shorts. I haven't worn long pants now for about two weeks.)


Sadly the heat has caused over 150 people to swim in water seeking relief and then drown. Most have drowned because they were drunk and overly heated. Last week two small children drowned in a city fountain. 


The heat is also causing numerous fires. This one occurred about 1/2 mile from outside of my apartment. 

There is nothing better than waking up on a weekday morning to the smell of burning towers. It inspired me as I sweltered in my apartment finishing up a research paper on Stalin's use of propaganda in Moscow's Metro system.


I'm traveling to St. Petersburg today. It is expected to be about 15 degrees cooler because of its location on the Baltic Sea. Yeah!

Bigger is not Always Better

Friday is my last language class. I have written three papers, and completed three lecture courses. I have lived in Moscow now for just over four weeks. On Friday night I take the train with my group to St. Petersburg. We will stay and visit for the weekend and return on the night train Sunday night. There are then two more days of packing in Moscow before flying out next Wednesday. I am looking forward to returning home.

Today I visited some excellent Soviet-era moments to the greatness of Communism.

I was amazed at the Space Obelisk, which is over 350 feet high. Officially known as the Monument to "The Conquerers of Space." It represents a rocket heading toward the heavens. It is a beautiful example of Soviet public art and propaganda. At the base of the status is an awesome Bas-relief of Soviet Realist art, depicting the Soviet people under a confident Lenin pointing the way to space and the future. The grand opening of the monument took place on October 4, 1964, on the day of the 7th anniversary of the Sputnik 1 launch.





Even more impressive is the spectacular site of the former Exhibition of Economic Achievements of the U.S.S.R. It is still intact but is now known as the All-Russian Exhibition Centre. It was built in 1939 and designed to impress. It did.

Conceived as a cross between World Fair and Theme Park, with monuments to Soviet science, fountains, amusement-park rides and national pavilions for all the republics of the USSR. There are 82 pavilions spread over 578 acres. It was over 90 degrees so I didn't visit them all :)


The main entrance is a triumphal archway surmounted by towering statues of a tractor driver and a farm girl brandishing sheaves of wheat, which sets the scale for the avenue of fountains that leads to a Lenin statue and the Central Pavilion.


Between 1948 and 1989 pavillions continued to be added until it reached its peak of 82. There were pavillions for industries or fields such as Engineering, Space, Atomic Energy, People's Eduction, Radioelectronics, and Soviet Culture. There were also pavillion dedicated to regions or towns within the Soviet Union. The exhibition was held annually and attracted scientist and industry professionals from across the Soviet Union and the world. It was used to showcase what the Soviet Union claimed to be progress in all fields. 


In 1992 Russia opened it up to private enterprise. Now it is a bizarre juxtaposition: part agricultural fair, part trade expo, part shopping centre and part street market, with amusements as diverse as paint-balling and camel rides - as well as the ubiquitous slot-machine arcades - on offer in various parts of the grounds. This isn't what Stalin had it mind.  


As I was standing in the middle of the park with the massive pavilions surrounding me it dawned on me that this is why I wanted to come to Russia. I am able to place myself within an existing Soviet monument. Seeing all the elaborate pavilions, immensity of their scale, expensive landscaping, and self-adulation of progress and innovation, it became clear to me that the prestige expressed by the Soviets at this exhibition center was all smoke and mirrors. They had their own people fooled and many world leaders. Bigger is not always better.

Corruption and other Crimes

The biggest obstacle for political change in Russia is corruption at all levels of government. Taking bribes and skimming the cream off the budget are the norms, not the exceptions. Government corruption has its roots in the Soviet Union beginning in the 1970s as the wheels began coming off. Soviet elites wanted to improve their situation as consumer goods became more scarce. Until corruption is reigned in, democratic  progress for the lower and emerging middle class is not going to happen.

Here are three stories in the July 20 edition of the Moscow Times. These are all published the SAME day.

Police-initiated Crime

Police resist change despite growing public distrust: A state-run polling agency conducted a poll with Russians. 82% believe that police officers are ready to break the law. That's one point higher than last year.

32% believe they commit crimes on a regular basis.

Some towns have to use police to police the police.

By the way, it is against the law to "insult" a public official, including police officers. A fine of $1000 or several months of forced labor.

Today's Learning Objective: Demonstrate creativity in making money.
Moscow's Education Department spent 9.35 million rubles ($306K) to lease 7 cars for 12 months. It could have purchased them outright for 8.75 rubles ($287K). An obvious case of fraudlent activity, which runs rampent in government.

Guys: It is always great to give gifts to your wife, unless it's against the public interest.
Moscow's head of the department of bridge and road construction is being investigated for giving 48 different contracts to companies headed by his wife or where she has financial interest.
When questioned about her ownership, he didn't deny it.

Propaganda in the Metro

Who says you can never go back home again, even if that home represented repression and persistent propaganda.

Two phrases you don't expect to read when walking around the city of Moscow:


"Stalin reared us on loyalty to the people. He inspired us to labour and heroism."


"For the Motherland! For Stalin!"


Yes, these slogans can be found today in the Kurskaya Metro station. There are numerous artistic depictions of the sickle and hammer, Lenin, Soviet stars, and the like throughout the stations. One could dismiss the Stalin slogans as going along with the other Soviet-era slogans. There is a lengthy quote by Lenin in another station.


However, following Stalin's death in 1953, Nikita Khrushchev denounced Stalin for his murderous purges and cult of personality and began what became known as the de-Stalinization movement.  The slogans were painstakingly removed in the late 1950s along with other pro-Stalin propaganda.


The station lobby got an extensive renovation between 2008 and 2009. When it was restored, so were the slogans. There is also two large swords in the lobby that represent the Soviet Union's victory over Nazi Germany. On the swords had been the name of the modern-day Russian city of Volgograd, but it was changed back to its wartime name of Stalingrad.


I'll give the the designers some credit.What wasn't restored was a statue of Stalin that had been at the station.

This is an excellent example of the political void in Moscow and the Russian Federation. There are still many people who look fondly back on Stalin's leadership because he created a powerful country, beat the Nazis, and developed the A-bomb. But the prices was millions of deaths. Today the people want democracy but not the kind that Boris Yeltsin had provided in the 1990s. It was a disaster. Today, the government of Medvedev and Putin continues to become more authoritative and corrupt. Yet the people accept limited freedoms to avoid a return to the 1990s. 


I'll let you draw your own conclusion as to what this renovation (and restoration) symbolizes.


In an "un-related" story, 3.5 tons of human bones were found at the Pacific port of Vladivostok. There are at least 495 skeletons, who had been victims of Stalin's purges.  


Another example of  propaganda in the Metro: 

The mural shown in the photo below was painted in the Kiev Ring Metro station in 1951. Obviously it is still there as this is my picture. Look carefully at the top left banner. That is an image of Lenin, who represents the power and security of the state.

It is called “The People’s Procession,” a large mural at the Kiev Ring station, is an excellent example of how the government provided abundance, happiness, and state-sponsored security in the form of decor. The mural, which is located at the end of the platform, depicts the Ukrainian people in folk costumes celebrating underneath a banner of Lenin. Old and young men and women are represented, demonstrating unity, and food and flowers representing plenty are seen.

Random Thoughts

As of today, I have completed three weeks of my adventure. I'll be departing for Cape Cod in two weeks. While I've enjoyed my time in the city and seeing the sights, I cannot wait to get home. Last Sunday I ceased being a tourist at the State Historical Museum on Red Square. There is only so much one can see or do before hitting sensory overload. Everything began to blur together and I was becoming frustrated so I went back to my apartment to relax and be by myself for the remainder of the day. It worked. I have been fine sense and am planning to do and see more sights later this week.

Here is a collection of random thoughts from this week:

Language Problem: After completing my second week of Russian language course, I find myself beginning to struggle. One problem is that the professor was under the impression that the students had a basic knowledge of the language. We didn't. And, therefore is moving at lightening speed. Secondly, Russian pedagogy relies on rote memorization as the foundation for teaching. I am a visual learner so it is difficult for me to process the language by only hearing it or repeating it. However, what I am picking up is being able to read the words, which was my goal prior to beginning the program. I wanted to be able to translate Russian posters from the 20th century. I am able to repeat simple phrases, such as "My name is Jeff" or "Where is the toilet, please?" Just don't ask me to translate, "Again, please, do I cut the red or the green wire first to defuse the bomb."


Drinking Problem: Russia has one of the highest rates of alcoholism in the world. After living here for three weeks I can see why this is a problem. A common 1/2 liter of beer costs 30 rubles ($1) if obtained on draft. Water or fruit-based drinks cost 40 rubles. Coke or Pepsi? 70 rubles. All of these beverages can be purchased just about anywhere from street vendors. Most restaurants sell beer and hard liquors. Even most mall food-court restaurants sell beer. In most grocery stores a 1/2 liter of common vodka can be purchased for less than 100 rubles, or about $3.25. In Moscow it is against the law to drink in public, yet everyday I pass a large number of people (mostly men) consuming a bottle or can of beer. I even seen several men openly drink beer on the Metro. Perhaps I'm being unfair to judge because I'm not suggesting that America has no problem with alcohol, because it does. American society tends to hide the problem and pretend that young people don't drink or that adults consume too much. There is a dichotomy between the societies where one hides it problem and the other is seen warts and all. 

Hot! Hot! Hot!: Moscow is currently experience an unusually hot summer, the hottest in recent memory. For the past 6 days it has reached above 90 degrees. The next five days are fore-casted to be above 95. Saturday will be 100 degrees. With a short summer season, very few buildings have air conditioning (or good ventilation) so it can become quite uncomfortable. Muscovites have a high tolerance for the warmth. In the school classrooms they are often closing windows, not opening them.  Europeans don't wear short pants and very few men above 30 wear T-shirts. Up to now I've played the role of a good traveler and have attempted to blend in with my surroundings. However, I may play the role of a typical American tourist and wear shorts for the next few days. I am too used to the cooler confines of Cape Cod and air conditioning, so it isn't easy to walk for 30 minutes on city streets to get to classes and then sit in a very warm and stuffy classroom for 4 hours of lectures. Then, I get to travel back to my warm and stuffy apartment for the evening. Ugh! As my resident director has stated often: "Russia isn't for sissies." I agree.

Mall Rat: On Tuesday following classes a colleague and myself spent over three hours in the very large European mall next to the Moscow River. While we looked around at all of the Western-based stores, the reason wasn't to shop. We were there for two things: Air Conditioning and Coca-Colas' with ice. (See above). In Russia as in Europe, ice is a rare find. Burger King sold it.

Cuban Cigar Crisis: Since there is no embargo on Cuban-made goods here in Russia I decided to purchase an H. Upmann cigar made in Havana, Cuba on Tuesday. However, as I've long suspected and have read critiques about them, the Cuban-made cigar cannot live up to its hype. Its mystique for Americans is its unavailability in the states. I usually smoke cigars made in the Dominican Republic, which smoke and taste the same but for a quarter of the price. But, a nice advantage about smoking cigars in Moscow is that you don't getting dirty looks from others, usually because they are busy smoking cigarettes. Many restaurants sell cigarettes and cigars from their food menus. The other day I sat in a the "no smoking" section of a popular restaurant. The only thing not smoking was the sign. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!

Novodevichy Cemetery: "We will bury you!"

"We will bury you!"


Soviet premier Nikita Khrushchev uttered this chilling remark in 1956 after settling into power following Stalin's death. While the remark seems threatening in the context of the Cold War, he later clarified that he meant the superior Soviet system will ultimately defeat the capitalist workers of America. Not quite. 


Speaking of being buried, I sat on K's grave this weekend. It is located in the exclusive Novodevichy Cemetery in Moscow. K died in 1971. Ironically, the grave's monument to K was created by Russian abstract artist Ernst Neizvestnyi, whose work was criticized by the Premier while he was in power. While attending a 1962 Soviet art exhibition, K saw Neizvestnyi's work and called it "dog shit." Despite rising to the pinnacle of power, Khrushchev was anything but sophisticated. He always was simple and direct, likely a feature of his peasant background. He wanted to see Soviet art focus on ordinary people and realism. 


K's monument is a simple design and it serves as a metaphor for his life, darkness and light. K was a strong supporter of Stalin's purges, which he ably carried out in Moscow and later the Ukraine. Thousands were arrested and executed under K's watch. Yet, it is the same K who later denounces Stalin's brutality and begins the de-Stalinization movement. He also sought to give the Soviet people a whiff of progress in the arts, education, and agriculture. K made many enemies within the Soviet hierarchy and was eventually pulled from power in 1964. Because he didn't seek to "purge" his political enemies while he was in power, the favor was returned and he was allowed to live out his final years relatively comfortable. He got the ultimate revenge by dictating his memoirs on audio tape. They were smuggled out of the country and published in 1970. So in the end K tried to right the many wrongs he had committed earlier in his life. 

Not just anyone can be buried at Novodevichy cemetery. Those who are buried there during the Soviet years or since made an impact within the Soviet Union or the Russian Federation. There are graves and monuments to Boris Yeltsin, composer Dmitri Shostakovich, cellist Mstislav Rostropovich, former first lady Raisa Gorbachev, foreign minister Andrei Gromyko, Olympic champion high jumper Valery Brumel, playwright Anton Chekhov, prime minister Vyacheslav Molotov, Stalin's second (and last) wife Nadezhda Alliluyev, who killed herself in 1932 after suffering from years of abuse, and many, many notable Soviet military commanders. (On the left is one of the first Soviet Cosmonauts. The monument to the left is for his "partner" as they were never married, but will still spend eternity next to each other.)


The cemetery is quite beautiful. The graves and monuments are well laid out in rows but nature is allowed to encroach, which adds to its peacefulness. The shade from the trees is delightful, especially on these hot summer days.  Russian cemeteries are quite different than American cemeteries. It is a cultural tradition - for those who can afford it - to provide a monument to the deceased, usually with their likeness. These, like Khrushchev's, can be quite - well - monumental. One can tell what the person's role in life was from the monument. There is a heart surgeon, a Ob/Gyn, a general, a cosmonaut, KGB officials, a tank commander, a military communications commander, a circus clown, stage actor, musician, and so on.

Wrestling Stalin

I had a great time tonight visiting the graveyard of fallen Soviet Memorial at the Central House of Artist, also known as the Fallen Monuments Park. It is across the wide street from Gorky Park. I was able to flip Stalin the bird and put him in a headlock, plus see the remnants of hundreds of former statues, artwork and busts that occupied the Soviet Union. They have been assembled here in this park because there was no other place to put them. 

It is quite bizarre touring this park. A large statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky, who was the founder and initial leader of the Checka, Lenin's secret police and heavy during the Red Terror, stood front and center. The statue once stood at Lubyanka Square, near the KGB Headquarters before it was pulled down in 1991 by cheering crowds with the collapse of communism. It now resides peacefully in this park. Nearby a construction company is putting the finishing touches on a large apartment building designed with a neo-Stalinist architecture. It is hideous and revolting. It has the similar wedding-cake appearance of Stalin's Seven Sisters. Put in juxtaposition with Dzerzhinsky's towering figure, it is further proof that the Russian people aren't quite sure they are ready to leave their past behind them.

But, as stated earlier, I put Stalin in a headlock and flipped him the bird. This was the highlight of my Tuesday evening. There is minor damage done to the larger statue from previous vandalism, but I cannot believe the statue is upright, and the bust isn't at the bottom of the Moscow River. I certainly will put my photo with Stalin to good use as a profile picture.


The picture below is myself in front a large Soviet emblem and a sign that, roughly translated, states the USSR is the center of the world. Yeah, that is so 1950s. Today, the sign is rusting and falling apart in a park mostly visited by tourists and young Russian couples who want to make out on the numerous park benches. 

Happy 4th of July!

Happy Fourth of July, Americans. 

As the United States celebrates its independence from a monarchy, I celebrated my weekend visiting relics of a failed political system: Lenin, Stalin (that bastard),  Krushchev (that fool) Brezhnev, Andropov, and Chernenko.

On Saturday, I finally got to see Vladimir Lenin, or at least a waxy representation of him. I admit that I've wanted to view his body since I learned about him in high school history class. But then it was a cool idea because the Cold War was still on, Reagan was in office, Perestroika had yet to begin and it sounded risky and exciting. However, 25 years later it was a major letdown. It was as if I gained entrance to a state-sanctioned freak show to see a man's body whose ideals began evaporating the moment he seized power in 1917. I haven't figured out why Russia continues to treat Lenin nostalgically because he is the same man who immediately created the brutal secret police (the Cheka) and instituted the Red Terror against his opponents once taking power. He is no George Washington, yet his likeness is all around the city on busts, T-shirts, murals, paintings, etc.

Viewing his body was worth every penny. There is no charge to see Lenin. You have to stand a long line with other tourists. (Most Russians don't bother to view his "body" any longer.) Ironically, the line stretched all the way from Red Square to the McDonald's (I'm not kidding.) After queuing through the mausoleum, the formality I mentioned the other day has decreased considerably in the past five years according to my group leader. There are far fewer guards, the line became single file, the few guards in the mausoleum looked bored and were not at full attention. My guess is the "show" is getting old and in a few years they will finally bury this charade once and for all.

After standing in the bright sunlight for an hour, it is a shock to walk into the mausoleum because it is so dark. I began shuffling my feet on the marble floor because I knew there were steps coming up. The room is about 30 x 30 feet with a guard posted on each corner. The line queues around three sides of Lenin's sarcophagus. Once I entered the room I found myself staring at the guard to gauge his reaction to the tourist. He looked bored. I then looked at the "body." It is just as it appears in pictures. His skin is ghostly-white, his right hand is in a gentle fist and his left is laid out, palm down. As I passed the left side of his body I leaned in slightly to look at the skin on his face and it appeared as if it had way to much pancake makeup. Gross is the most elegant word I can muster. And, as I passed around him I consciously began thinking that I had NO reverence at all for this man. The only reason I am viewing the body is probably the same for many non-Russians, morbid curiosity.

Leaving the mausoleum the line is directed along the wall of the Kremlin where name plates list those people  interred in the Kremlin wall, and then finally you pass the row of highest Soviet honor, burial at the Kremlin. These include those that succeeded Lenin: Stalin, Brezhnev, Andropov, and Chernenko. Each has a marble bust. No matter which direction I looked at Stalin, I'm convinced his bust's eyes followed me. Very creepy, but fitting for the paranoid bastard. (Below is the marble bust of Stalin. Once again, I don't understand why Russia continues to pay any respect to this man's memory. I know there are old hard-line communist who would prefer Stalin to Putin, Medvedev and the current government, but at some point the bust has to go. There have already been many likenesses of Stalin that have been removed from the Metro and other places.)

On Sunday I traveled to view Khrushchev's grave at Novodevichy Cemetery, which is one the outskirts of the city. While the location is ancient and beautiful, it isn't as impressive as being buried at the Kremlin. Of course, if Stalin was buried in a publicaly accessible area, his grave would have been destroyed by now. For the leader of the Soviet Union I was surprised at how simple Khrushchev's grave is, especially when I compare it with other nearby graves of high-ranking Soviet political and military leaders. (More on this later.)

This is the first Fourth of July that I have every spent on foreign soil, and after having spent the past two days reflecting upon this country's terrible past experiences with brutal leaders, I am thankful for the United States, the Bill of Rights, elected leadership, and representational democracy. Despite the blemishes and the occasional hiccups, the U.S. form of government sure beats dictatorship and repression.

Khrushchev's Gravestone

Side Notes:

Besides visiting Novodevichy Cemetery on Sunday, I spent four hours in the morning riding the Metro taking photos of various decorations that were installed during Stalin's time. The pictures are published here. I will continue to take more photos next Sunday, when there are the fewest people in the Metro. I plan to use the photos to develop a unit on Stalin's use of architecture and propaganda from 1935 to 1953.

As an aside, it appears the mullet haircut, which had been on a steep decline in the U.S., is making its comeback here in Russia.  I've seen some major mullets this past week. (I feel like I'm back in Kentucky at times.) Also, camouflage seems to be a popular fashion print for both men and women. The trifecta will be a man wearing camoflage, sporting a mullet with a wad of chewing tobacco in his mouth. Yee-hah!

First Week of Classes

It is Saturday morning I am relaxing after my first full week in Moscow. The past five days I have walked many miles throughout the city exploring it and have finished the first week of classes. I am enjoying my politics class and my economics class very much. It is very interesting learning about Russia's situation from Russian professors who have experienced the Soviet Union, the transition period, and the contemporary situation. The classes combined with my personal experiences are already giving me a revised outlook on this country.

I have also finished my first week of Russian language classes. This is by far the hardest course I am taking. I have also found it difficult to learn any language, and this - of course - is no exception. But, I am trying my hardest to learn as much as I can. I also have a Russian tutor, who is helping me. My tutor is exceptional, and I know I got lucky compared to my 11 colleagues. While most tutors are Russian college students who aspire to teach language or make a few bucks on the side, my tutor teaches German and English at Moscow State University. She spent 2 hours with me on Tuesday having me recite over and over again words that I just started learning the day before. It was very helpful, but also very humbling.

On Thursday, after four days of instruction, I became excited when I was hurrying through the Metro and discovered myself reading the Cyrillic signs as to the stations I needed to head toward. Thus, I can now see

Китай Пород

and know that it is the Kitay-Gorod station, which is the station that I go to when I head to the university. However, I'm still not quite sure what these Cyrillic words are advertising: 

I know the first letter of each word is a D, (the Delta symbol) but I'm still not sure of the rest. Maybe later I'll have some coffee and work on my translation.

I am currently writing / illustrating my experiences this week of the city in several themed postings. I am on sensory overload and don't know where to being or end, so as I finish them, I'll publish one at a time.

Yesterday I took a beautiful trip down the Moscow River, which winds through the city. (More on this in a future post. Prior to boarding, Коко-Кола was promoting its affiliation with the World Cup by giving away small cans of Coke in the area of a public fountain. Being a hot day, the free soda tasted great, and best of all, it was the coldest beverage I have been served since arriving in Russia. No drinks are served with ice, and most are a few degrees above room temperature.

Ahhh! The small joys of capitalism thriving in Moscow. I, along with all of my colleagues enjoyed a free Coke prior to touring the Moscow River on Friday, July 2. While soda is readily available, I haven't seen many Russians drinking it. Popular non-alcoholic drinks are Nestea, water, lemon-flavored water, and Quas, (Kvas) which is a drink made of rye and malt. It tastes like unfinished beer soaked in bread.  

Side Notes:

Lenin: I am getting ready to visit the Lenin Mausoleum at Red Square this morning. Since I was in high school I've always considered this display of Lenin's body as somewhat of a freak show / side show. And, I actually have mixed feelings about this because of how the Russian authorities "force" you to be respectful. While I'm excited to see his body as a mere curiosity, in a way I am lending credence to his botched attempt at controlling the world by shuffling past his remains. I will be lined up next to another person and allowed to walk (and keep walking) around his body, which lies on top of a sarcophagus in the mausoleum. I will not be allowed to wear a hat, bring a camera, talk, point, put my hands in my pockets, laugh, etc. I'll report on what I feel about this experience tomorrow.

Coffee: Since leaving DC I haven't had a cup of coffee. I've been OK with this. Russians like a lot of their coffee instant, which I find strange especially with the influx of Western coffee shops: Dunkin Donuts and Starbucks. (This may be changing if the marketers have their way.) All of sudden this morning I am having a coffee craving. Where I live is too far from a good coffee shop to purchase a cup for about two hours when I ride the Metro downtown. The shops across the street from my apartment only offer instant. I'll wait...Maybe.